The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September sixth, advising you watch that Chalupa.

For many travelers, the chance to taste new foods is a primary reason for any journey. Others are wary of putting anything unfamiliar in their mouths. But more disconcerting than exotic entrees ordered inadvertently is the case of dysentery you might get on the side.

You don't have to be food paranoid to worry about gastronomic horrors hidden behind the kitchen door, which can cause a wide range of stomach turning ailments. Professional chefs offer these tips.

Though tempting, avoid egg-york rich sauces like hollandaise and bearnaise, which must be kept at room temperature to be served and become Club Med for bacteria. Health officials suggest throwing out unused sauce after an hour, but few restaurants do. Ditto for buffet omelets, unless you can be sure the eggs have been freshly cracked.

Never order fresh fish on Mondays, since most fish markets are closed on the weekend. Ask to see the fish before it's cooked. A fresh specimen glistens. Its eyes are clear, not milky, and it has an oceany smell. If they're hesitant to show it to you, beware. And steer clear of mollusks such as clams, oysters, mussels and sea snails.

In less developed lands, order fare that's been stewed or thoroughly cooked. Favor places where the chef is proud of the food, avoid those with ambitious dishes and empty tables and assume the kitchen's only as clean as the bathroom. Sometimes crowded street stalls may be safer than a hotel dining room. In addition to watching the food be cooked, make sure raw meat and vegetables are kept separate. Cross contamination is the main cause of food poisoning.

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