The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September twentieth, previewing Octoberfest in Munich.

In the fall of 1810, Ludwig, Crown Prince of the kingdom of Bavaria married Princess Therese. A massive fair was held on a swath of fields along Munich's southwest corner, and the whole city was invited. The fall festival proved so popular with Bavarians, they made it an annual event that has grown into the world's largest beer bash, a 16-day, non-stop celebration of hops.

Despite its name, Octoberfest actually begins on the last or next to last weekend in September, as is the case this year. Festivities commence this Saturday morning at 11, when the first of the huge, horse-drawn beer wagons will enter the fairgrounds on the fields now named after Princess Therese. Saturday evening, a huge folklore concert will be held. Many participants will join the great procession on Sunday morning, as hundreds of marching bands move from Munich's center to the fairgrounds, accompanied by floats and much frivolity.

The proportions of the main event are staggering. German breweries have erected a dozen huge tents, some seating 10,000 revelers. Arranged along four main avenues, the tents are surrounded by an on-going carnival, complete with carrousels, games and hair-raising, gut-churning rides. But the consumption of beer is the primary activity. Five million participants will consume 2 million gallons, along with mountains of sausage and grilled chicken. Octoberfest afternoons are fairly relaxed, but evenings can get so rowdy, unaccompanied women are advised to proceed with caution.

FMI For Octoberfest information, call the Munich tourist bureau at 212-661-7200 or www.munich-tourist.de/english/o.htm

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