The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September nineteenth, enjoying another Dutch treat.

Last time, we visited Amsterdam. Maastricht, the venerable old Dutch city on the banks of River Meuse, is capital of the province of Limburg. Situated in the very southeast tip of the country, Limburg is a dollop of Holland squeezed in between Belgium and Germany.

A fortified Roman outpost as early as 50 B.C., Maastricht has bounced between various rulers ever since, all the time developing its own unique identity. The treaty that paved the way for the European Union was signed here a decade ago. Perhaps history's swings of fate have given Maastricht's citizens their friendly, laissez-faire love of life.

Europe has many superb old towns, but Maastricht ranks among the best. Walkably small, lovingly preserved, surprisingly sophisticated, the narrow cobblestone streets of Maastricht's old town are blessedly free of cars. The buildings that line them look as they did centuries ago, with stone walls and steep-pitched, gabled roofs, but now the restaurants and shops boast fine cuisine and haute couture, at fairly moderate prices. Half a dozen small museums display an impressive array of historic art, artifacts and ecclesiastical collections, some of which date back to pre-Roman times.

For the devout, Maastricht is a place of pilgrimage, with many fine old churches. Yet, as the city's fun-loving residents point out, the city has six times as many pubs as it does churches. An abundance of outdoor cafes add to the al fresco congeniality. Maastricht is such a pleasant place to visit, it's become the favorite weekend destination for the Dutch, even out-distancing much larger Amsterdam.

FMI For Maastricht information: Netherlands Board of Tourism at 800-888- GoHolland (888-464-6552) or www.goholland.com

For Maastricht details www.vvvmaastrict.nl/English

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