The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September eighteenth, ambling through Amsterdam.

This venerable Dutch port may be Europe's best major city for walking. Built along the river Ij, a tributary of the mighty Rhine, its central, old town is defined by the five major canals which radiate in a maze of concentric semi-circles around its main train station.

Rather than broad vistas, Amsterdam unveils its charms on a more intimate, human scale. Instead of grand plazas and palaces, it's fitted with small but well-preserved 17th-century buildings which line the cobbled streets that frame the narrow side-canals. Each individual building has a special, homey touch of charm or elegant simplicity.

Amsterdam projects an easy, down-to-earth feeling that makes complete strangers feel at home. There's no shortage of interesting and unique diversions. Herrengracht, the city's grand canal, is a working waterway plied by water-taxis and barges selling plants and cut flowers. Three world-class galleries, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum and the Stedelijk Museum are clustered on a few city blocks. The notorious Zeedijk red-light district is evidence of the pragmatic dichotomy the Dutch maintain toward human foibles such as sex and drugs. Though the Heineken Brewery no longer produces any beer, it's now a heady museum of the art of brewing.

But more than places or things, Amsterdam's most ingratiating aspect is its population. The Dutch are relaxed, welcoming and open-minded, with a uniquely youthful orientation. The vibrant, daily street-life they create makes Amsterdam a great place to just be.

FMI For Amsterdam information: Netherlands Board of Tourism at 800-888- GoHolland (888-464-6552) or www.goholland.com

For Amsterdam details www.visitamsterdam.nl.

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