The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September fourteenth, going to Goa.

In the last days of the Middle-Ages, a tiny piece of Portugal took root on the shores of the Indian Ocean, just south of the city of Mumbai. Portuguese conquistadors came to the western coast of India with a huge war fleet and established a formidable foothold on the spice trade. Boom times were over by 1700, but the Portuguese ruled this area of rich red soil and fertile paddy fields for 451 years. In that time, they molded it in their own image.

Modern Goa is now a state in India. But in comparison with the rest of the country, which always seems packed tight with people, Goa is relatively uncrowded. Hunger, poverty and crime are relative rarities. Goa also has a definite Mediterranean feel. The narrow cobbled streets of its capital's old quarter might fit in anywhere on the Iberian peninsula. The ambiance and activities of Goa's Arabian Sea beaches are reminiscent of the Algarve, Portugal's Riviera, hedonistic but with a sense of propriety.

For a fascinating glimpse of grand tradition, visit Old Goa. A superb and poignant view is from the Chapel of Our Lady, up a half mile flight of steps above the nearest taxi stand. The climb is a killer, but the high vista is amazing. Only scattered church spires poke above the forest canopy. An entire Renaissance city, palaces, shops, taverns and houses, has been buried by the vegetation. Images of Ozimandius, that sight alone is worth the going to Goa. September through March are generally the best months to visit.

FMI For information on Goa: www.tourindia.com

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