The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September eleventh, with eleven essential Yellowstone experiences.

Though anyone can buy an ice cream cone and sit on benches and watch Old Faithful with the multitudes, Yellowstone is not a theme park. Approaching its 130th anniversary, America's first National Park is still wild and untamed at heart, a challenging, strikingly varied landscape that's home to bear and bison, wolf and elk.

Despite fires around the park's eastern entrance this summer, it boasts a collection of natural wonders found in such abundance no where else on earth. In the September issue of the magazine National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program, a panel of Yellowstone experts offer eleven excursions that reveal its essence.

In addition to the main attractions like the thermal wonders of the Geyser Basin and Mammoth Hot Springs, they direct visitors to the lesser known Norris Valley, where the underground plumbing is hot, active and loud. Drive or hike in the Lamar Valley, often called America's Serengeti. Hayden Valley, in the park's center is another superb place to find bison, elk and grizzlies. There's advice on getting in to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, where a network of footpaths provide panoramic access to the 23-mile long chasm, with its colorful, steam burnished cliffs and two roaring waterfalls.

There's watery wilderness as well. Yellowstone Lake is the largest, high-elevation body of water in North America. Experienced canoers can attempt the challenging paddle from Lewis Lake to Shoshone Lake. And in winter, cross country skiers can ponder the contrasting wonders of fire and ice.

With their inside insights and expert advice, it's a comprehensive introduction to Yellowstone.

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