The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL, September twenty-fourth, sailing on the Hurtigruten.

The coast of Norway is 1200 miles of stunningly rugged landscape; craggy, weather-scarred, volcanic cliffs plunging straight into the Atlantic. Only fjords, steep, sheer-walled inlets etched by wind and water, break the rigid uniformity. The walls of some fjords tower a 1000 feet high but less than 200 feet apart. Yet at the head of many of these narrow inlets, a tiny fishing village has taken root. Often, these settlements offer the only access to Norway's interior.

This part of the world is most alive in summer and early fall, when warm weather and lots of daylight coax out the blossoms. Luxury cruise liners ply these waters, attracting travelers from near and far who get stiff necks marveling at the vertical vistas.

But there's another, more authentic way to explore Norway's rugged coastline. All aboard the Hurtigruten.

These intrepid ships shuttle passengers and freight between the city of Bergen in the south all the way to the village of Kirkens in the reaches of the farthest north. For a century, these steamers have been the primary link for Norway's isolated coastal outposts. Real work boats, they make 30 stops or more on their week-long journeys. A recent addition to the fleet, the Kong Harald, carries tons of freight and as many as 500 passengers in relatively comfortable cabins.

For travelers who long to experience spectacular scenery at an affordable price, a voyage on a Norwegian Hurtigruten certainly fits the bill.

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