The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September twenty-third, breaking rules in Brussels.

It's not surprising that a city which serves as the capital of Belgium, the European Community and NATO is an orderly place. The art and architecture of Brussels rank among Europe's best, with a well preserved medieval core inside a ringroad that traces the city's 14th century walls. Its Grand Place may be the continent's best city square.

But contrary to its reputation as the dull grey turf of even grayer bureaucrats, Brussels is a charming city packed with Flemish gusto and palatable delights. It's an afterhours center of Euro- style and joking joie de vivre that can seduce even the most dedicated official into breaking a few rules. In fact, a bronze statue of a micturating cherub in the Grand Place, may be the best emblem of the city's irreverent spirit.

Situated in the heart of Belgium, on the line that divides Flemish-speaking Flanders and French-speaking Wallonia, Brussels dates from the 6th century. Taking its name from Broekzelle or "village of the marsh," it grew along the wide flat banks of the river Senne, becoming a commercial center along early trade routes to Germany. Despite a long and turbulent history, the city was spared much of the destruction that racked Europe this century. Since World War Two, it's benefitted greatly from its position of political potency.

Its glossy bistros and boutiques complement a non-stop music scene. There's that foaming beer and seductive chocolate served in the exuberant shadows of baroque gables and art nouveau landmarks. What is surprising is that anyone ever returns to the office at all.

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