The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September twentieth, seeing Copenhagen on a budget.

Denmark's capital is the largest and most charming city in Scandinavia. With its elegant, old buildings, fine museums and galleries, trendy shops, and bustling nightlife, Copenhagen is a fascinating, friendly place to visit.

Unfortunately, it's also one of Europe's most expensive destinations, where the cost of dining can ruin your appetite and the price of a hotel room can keep you up at night. But one can still sample Danish delights without blowing the budget.

For example, it's possible to find excellent, inexpensive, B&B-type lodgings in private homes. Many are in Christianhavn, the neat, photogenic neighborhood a few blocks south of the city's center. Copenhagen's tourist office can provide a list and make reservations, as can "Use It," an agency that caters to cost-conscious travelers.

Though fine dining is dear, you can usually find some relative bargains. Smorrebrod, the elegant, open-faced sandwiches that are a Danish delight, cost a small fortune in big restaurants. But you can buy them for much less in many small, family-run shops. In fact, whatever you feel like eating, Copenhagen offers a wider choice and lower priced options than any other Scandinavian city.

Copenhagen also reverberates throughout the year with free or inexpensive music, including concerts and festivals. Don't forget the free tour of the Carlsberg brewery, which is well worth taking, and not only for the complimentary beer at its end. With planning, a visit to wonderful, old Copenhagen doesn't have to break the bank.

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