The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: September twelfth, serving ice water in hell.

The Badlands were well named by French trappers who first traversed the 100-mile stretch of dry prairie, ragged ridge and rugged canyon in what's now southwest South Dakota. At the base of a twisted range of high, east west hills known as the Wall, a tiny town took root. Also called Wall, the town served as a way-station for travelers who rode the hot, dusty trail.

It was December 1931 when Dorothy and Ted Hustead bought Wall's only drugstore. For five, deep depression years, they struggled to keep the store alive. Then one blazing summer day, Dorothy had a revelation. Realizing every car in the steam of traffic on Route 16 held thirsty passengers, she posted signs announcing "Free Ice Water!"

Folks started stopping in Wall Drug. The ice water was free, but the Husteads came up with a steady series of innovative ways to get travelers to part with their cash. But another unique advertising campaign made Wall Drug a real roadside attraction.

For 500 miles in either direction, the Husteads set up simple signs announcing the mileage to their store. Travelers picked up on the idea and started planting their own Wall Drug signs in distant places. Photos they sent as proof were posted on the store's walls. During World War II, GIs put up Wall Drug signs around the globe. One can now be found at the South Pole; another was launched into space. Free bumper stickers and placards helped spread the word. While fancy roadside oases are much more common these days, none match the international fame of the drug store on I90 that offered travelers ice water for free.

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