The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: October twenty-sixth, finding peace in Kalaupapa.

Molokai is not Hawaii's most visited island. Halfway between Oahu and Maui, it has never been overwhelmed by the tides of tourists that have so radically changed its neighbors. Midway along Molokai's steep and rugged northern shore is a unique national park, a piece of paradise that wasn't always quite so hospitable to its guests.

Separated by high sea cliffs from the rest of the island, the Kalaupapa Peninsula is about three miles across. Starting in 1866, it became an isolation colony, a virtual prison for unfortunate Hawaiians who suffered from what we now call Hansen's disease. Back then, it was called leprosy, and there was no cure or treatment. Those stricken suffered horrible disfigurements and became outcasts. In Hawaii, leprosy victims were simply deposited at a small bay at the foot of the steep cliffs on Kalaupapa peninsula and left to fend for themselves until they died.

Conditions in the colony remained grim until 1873. That was when a 35-year-old Belgian missionary, Father Damien, arrived. Until he died 16 years later from leprosy, Damian devoted his life to improving the fates of the peninsula's unfortunate residents. A decade ago, Father Damien was beatified for his devotion, the last major step before sainthood.

As many as 1000 victims at a time once lived here, but since a cure was discovered in the early 40's, Kalaupapa's population has dwindled. Just a few former patients remain, though 10,000 visitors a year find their way by foot, ferry and plane to what may be America's most unique and poignant national historical park.

FMI For information contact Kaluapapa National Historic Park at 808-567-6802 or www.nps.gov/kala. Or visit the Molokai Visitors Association at www.molokai-hawaii.com

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