The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: October twenty-fourth, visiting five small museums in London.

The British Museum, Tate and National Gallery are fabulous and oft-visited repositories of art and history, but London is also blessed with small, specialized, often quirky collections.

Consider the Tea and Coffee Museum near Butler's Wharf on the Thames' south bank. Founded to tell the story of what it calls "the world's two most important commodities," it traces the history of hot beverages back to the 5th century. There's a collection of 500 teapots from Japan, China, England and the Continent, along with a unique assemblage of devices designed to brew a perfect cup of coffee.

The five stories of the London Toy and Model Museum in Craven Hill feature more than 7000 items, some dating back to the first century. Visitors can play many games, from Victorian slot machines to a wall-sized, electronic version of Snakes and Ladders. Nifty working models include a Welsh coal mine and a tiny amusement park.

For those interested in keeping time, the Clockmaker's Collection near St. Paul's Cathedral contains more than 700 chronometers, from great Big Bens to dozens of intricately carved pocket watches.

The Old Operating Theater, Museum and Herb Garret in St. Thomas Church chronicles the history of medicine and surgery. The Florence Nightingale Museum is devoted to the memory of the nursing pioneer known as the "lady with the lamp."

Since none of these small museums draw huge crowds, they're great places to pass a rainy afternoon in Londontown.

FMI For information, directions and hours call (all prefix from the U.S. 44-171): Bramah Tea and Coffee Museum 378-0222; Clockmakers Company Collection 332-1868; Florence Nightingale Museum 620-0374; Old Operating Theater and Museum 955-4791; London Toy and Model Museum 706-8000.

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