The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: October twenty-second, enjoying a thousand pound marlin and a ton of privacy.

When it comes to exclusive getaways, Lizard Island is as good as it gets. Although the name of this pristine 2,500 acre preserve in the heart of Australia's great barrier reef discourages casual visitors, Lizard Island lures a steady stream of the world's rich and famous.

Captain James Cook discovered the granite island in 1770, naming it after its population of huge but exceedingly shy monitor lizards. According to one account, the venerable captain climbed one of the island's 1200-foot-high hills to see if he could an exit through the reef. The proximity of the world's largest coral reef makes for great diving year round. Since Lizard Island is the only place inside the Great Barrier Reef where fishing is permitted, the angling is also great. Local waters teem with hundreds of species of marine life, including 15-foot manta rays, 150-year-old giant clams and 100-pound cod. September through December is peak black marlin season, although any fish under 1000 pounds must be tagged and released.

There's no shortage of activity for those who neither dive nor fish. Superb photographic opportunities abound, as do aquatic activities such as water-skiing and sight-seeing in glass bottom boats. High-quality, low-key privacy and 23 perfect crescent beaches are Lizard Island's primary attractions. A national park lodge and its three dozen bungalows offer the only accommodations, greatly limiting the guest list. Reservations are in such demand, most are made years in advance. Tomorrow: another, very different Australian island.

FMI For information on Lizard Island, www.queensland-holidays.com.au

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