The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: October third finding serenity in Sardinia.

Seventy miles wide by 150 long, the island of Sardinia is situated in the Mediterranean an hour's flight off the coast of Italy. Relatively free of large cities or heavy industry, the rugged island boasts some of Italy's cleanest, least crowded beaches.

Not particularly known for its cultural riches, Sardinia does bristle with vestiges of the various civilizations which have ruled the island in the last 3000 years. There are Carthaginian and Roman ruins, Genoan fortresses, Spanish churches and thousands of stone towers older than them all, remnants of Sardinia's pre-iron-age civilization.

Cagliari, Sardinia's capital and main port, lies on the island's southern tip. The city's sophisticated charms are neatly encompassed in its old quarter, a rambling collection of narrow, medieval lanes. The cathedral dates from the middle- ages, with Baroque renovations. The archeology museum has a splendid collection. There's a great view of the town and port from the top of the monumental fortress.

The town of Nuoro, at the base of a soaring peak in Sardinia's center also has a compelling old quarter, along with a reputation for producing poets. It's a good base from which to explore the local mountain villages, where the island's traditional culture still thrives.

Towns in the northwest reveal the island's Spanish tradition. Its emerald coast once attracted luminaries such as Rita Hayworth and Aga Khan. Even though it's lost that glitz factor, Sardinia's many authentic attractions remain undiminished by either time or tourism.

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