The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: October twenty-third, in Florida's big cypress country.

The entire southern tip of Florida, from Miami's suburbs on the east to the condos of Naples on the west, is one vast wetland more than 100 miles long and almost as wide. This is a sodden prairie of sawgrass and cattails, dotted with stands of cypress and mangrove. Occasional low islands are covered by pine trees and hardwood. Birds of a hundred different species fill the sky in staggering numbers. Deer and alligator roam, along with otter and rare Florida panthers.

Despite several small towns and the encroachment of civilization along its edges, much of this vast wilderness is now protected. Over two million contiguous acres have been set aside, including Everglades National Park, Big Cypress National Preserve, state parks and private preserves. Yet careful, curious visitors are always welcome.

The Audubon Society's Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, 20 miles northeast of Naples, is a good place to touch the heart of this remarkable ecosystem. Instead of sloshing in ankle deep water, one can stroll through the 10,000-acre preserve along a two-mile boardwalk. Corkscrew is no dark, miasmic swamp, but an airy and natural wonderland as beautiful as any landscaped garden. Air plants cling to huge cypress trees. Ferns and orchids create an atmosphere of a tropical jungle.

Many other areas of Florida's Everglades can be explored by foot, kayak, canoe and airboat. You'll find some listed on our website: travelersjournal.com. Though the winter months are more desirable, the everglades are ever majestic. Just bring insect repellent.

FMI Big Cypress National Preserve (941-695-4111; Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary 941-657-3771; Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve 941-695-4593; North American Canoe Tours 941-695-4666; Everglades Chamber of Commerce 941-695-3941

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