The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: November sixth, looking for the soul of Italy.

Greek pioneers founded the city in 600 BC on the north shore of the broad bay that nicks the shin of the Italian boot. They called it Neapolis, or "new city." Its mild climate and lush, scenic setting at the base of the great mountain made Naples and nearby edens like Sorrento and Capri seaside vacation and retirement havens for Rome's rich and royal. That changed in 79 A.D., with the eruption of Mount Vesuvius that scoured and scarred the landscape.

Since then, the great volcano has devastated the area numerous times. War has also wreaked terrible havoc, most recently the Allied bombing in World War Two, that reduced large tracts of the Naples to rubble. For that reason, the modern city is a mixed bag of imposing architecture that has stood the test of centuries and many more bland buildings, mostly apartment complexes, that filled in the gaps. Prosperity's also been elusive for many in this hillside city of a million.

But none of these trials ever diminshed its residents passion for life and appreciation of beauty. Neapolitans grow up on a daily diet of comedy and tragedy, knowing tears are as much a part of life as laughter. A comely, exuberantly expressive people, they live on fast forward, a constant, energetic exercise in humanity. Stroll the streets, and you'll them singing, story telling or haggling over each transaction. Naples also revolves around dining, a cuisine centered in simplicity and peasant food, it is said, fit for the taste buds of royalty. Earthy Naples ignites fierce loyalty, both from its residents and from visitors who appreciate authenticity, albeit rough around the edges.

This month's issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program, gets into the heart of Naples. You can register for a free sample copy at our home page.

FMI For information on Naples, the Italian State Tourist Office at 212-245-5618 or www.italiantourism.com or www.enit.it

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