The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: November twenty-ninth, celebrating Christmas in Amsterdam.

The Dutch are known for their unique attitude about many of life's aspects. That's especially true in Amsterdam, Europe's last capital that understands the art of understatement. It's a city of little bombast or self-importance, with no grand boulevards, epic squares or monuments to old heros. Never bombed and substantially unaltered, it combines contemporary vitality with the cozy warmth of an overgrown 17th- century village. Decades of Dutch openness have resulted in an adult population who feel free to indulge their inner child.

That's especially true this time of year. Streets along the city's semi-circle of narrow canals glow with lanterns announcing the coming of Christmas, and citizens give vent to their creativity. In bakeries, blue-rinsed matrons elbow by henna-haired hipsters to peek at the pastries, gingerbread dream houses and meringue snowmen.

The Dutch even have their own take on the timing of Christmas. While December 25th is observed, the big celebration has traditionally been the 5th. That's when the spirit of Saint Nicholas, or Sinterklaas, gallops across the land on a gray horse leaving behind presents for children. Rather than a right jolly old elf, this Nicholas was a 14th-century Dutchman beatified for saving young girls from prostitution.

The seasonal spirit is encapsulated in the Christmas market sprawling behind Amsterdam's Rikksmuseum. With its Ferris wheel, ice-rink and vendors peddling sugar powdered pancakes, it's less fervent religiosity than a giddy sense of youthful highjinks.

There's a yuletide amble through Amsterdam in this issue of the magazine National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program. You can register for a free copy at our home page.

FMI For information contact, Amsterdam Tourist Office at www.visitamsterdam.nl or the Netherlands Board of Tourism at 888-464-6552 or www.holland.com

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