The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: November fifteenth, searching for humuhumunukunukuapua'a.

Snorkeling is a major attraction in the Hawaiian Islands. Though their colorful profusion of underwater life is almost surreal, it's not found everywhere you can wet a flipper. Here are some superior suggestions.

Hanauma Bay at the far eastern end of Oahu is easily Hawaii's most famous snorkeling spot. It's been a marine conservation area so long, the giant parrot fish there will eat out of your hand.

Two other locations lie on the island of Kauii. On the north shore at the base of the famous Na Pali cliffs, Ke'e Beach is a somewhat-sheltered, sandy bottom lagoon. Poipu Beach on the south shore is also popular for snorkeling, but if it's not too windy, try the more private Kawaialoa region a mile further down the road.

The best place on Maui to find the fish is Makena on the Kaanapali coast. Or try the beachless islet of Molokini three miles off Maui's shore. The Kona coastline is where they snorkel on the big island. Kealakekua Bay has a complex of coral reefs. Pu'uhonua Park, once a pre-Christian place of refuge, is now home to that tiny fish with the very long name which we mentioned earlier.

Knowing when to snorkel in Hawaii is as important as knowing where. Best are days with no clouds or on- shore winds. Never turn your back on the water and stay alert for huge, sleeper waves that can come crashing in at any time. Finally, pay attention to the tides and currents. One simple way to check is to toss a stick in the water. If it floats out to sea in ten minutes or less, find another place or time to swim.

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