The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: November tenth, meeting the Manatees in Crystal Springs.

Ten feet long and weighing a ton or more, with faces only a mother could love, manatees are hard animals to call cuddly. Yet despite their bulk, these sea mammals are gentle souls. Also known as sea cows, their grey brown, bulbous, seal-like bodies taper to a flat, paddle-shaped tail. Totally non-aggressive with no defense mechanisms to speak of, these underwater herbivores are also highly social beings. In fact, as folks in the town of Crystal River on Florida's Gulf Coast can attest, manatees seem to actually enjoy human contact.

According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife service, some 2000 manatees live in Florida, the nation's largest concentration. Each winter, the shallow, fresh water springs of Citrus County harbor hundreds of these unlikely animals, and area dive shops offer human visitors a chance to get up close and personal.

While manatees are an endangered species, and stiff penalties apply for harassing or harming them, they do love to play. Joining them for a morning swim is a rare and memorable experience. As divers enter the water, manatees often swim right up to them, almost as if they were posing for pictures.

Situated some 60 miles north of Tampa, the Crystal River has five major manatee areas. Kings Springs is the largest and most popular. Homosassa Springs State Wildlife Park, with its Fish Bowl, is another good option. The ungainly sea cows frolic among swirls of colorful fish like the dancing elephants in Disney's Fantasia.

For information, call Crystal Lodge Dive Center 352-795-6798 www.mantee-central.com or Homosassa Springs Park 352-628-2311. For tours call Royal Palm Tours 800-296-0249 or www.calusacoast.com or www.discoverflorida.com

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