The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: May ninth, heading to Hilton Head.

Over the last 25 years, the shoe-shaped island situated at South Carolina's southeastern tip has been transformed from a sleepy, secluded summer resort into a vibrant, year round destination.

Yet, in contrast to the drive in from Interstate 95, Hilton Head Island retains a large measure of its old charm and moss-draped beauty. This is particularly true in Sea Pines, the resort area at the toe of the shoe, known for its beautiful, quaint harbor, landmark lighthouse and the Harbour Town Golf Links. Originally designed by Pete Dye and Jack Nicklaus, the course's tees and greens were totally renovated this winter. Green fees are steep, but worth it to play what Golf Magazine has rated America's 12th best public-access course. It's a demanding test, especially when the wind is howling off Calibogue Sound. Hole number 18 is a near double of the famous finisher at Pebble Beach.

Sister clubs Sea Marsh Course and Ocean Course are less demanding, but equally beautiful, with lots of water and other hazards. Hilton Head's 22 other courses offer similar terrain, but challenges unique to each. Tennis is also a big attraction in Sea Pines. Ex-pro Stan Smith heads-up the love-in at the tennis center. Biking, walking, horseback riding and beach strolling are other popular pursuits. Dining, from the best to the fast, is abundant.

Hilton Head Island in May is hard to beat; others swear fall is best. Regardless of when you go, if for the first time or a return after decades, you'll find much that is new, but also plenty that hasn't changed since the island was bridged in 1956.

FMI For information www.hilton-head.org or call 1-800-354-1002 For Resort Rentals at Hilton Head Island www.hhivacations.com or 1/800-845-7017. For tee times at Harbour Village Town Golf Links call 1-800-955-8337.

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