The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: June first, following the bouncing ball from Ballybunion to Portmarnock.

St. Andrews in Scotland may be the cradle of golf, but they've also been playing in Ireland for centuries. The Emerald Isle boasts more than 300 courses. Particularly challenging are its traditional links courses laid out on rugged, naturally-carved seaside terrain. Four Irish links courses rank among the world's top ten: Ballybunion, Portrush, Royal County Down and Portmarnock.

Links play is golf at its most formidable. It's common to stand on a tee and see no evidence of a fairway, green, or even a golf course. Ungroomed roughs have a habit of swallowing balls. When fog rolls in, you need a caddie to tell you both where to hit your ball and where to find it. Seawinds can carry a drive forever or blow it back in your face. On long par fives, you can play in both calm sunshine and gale-driven rain. Even the scenery can take your breath away.

Consider Waterville on Ballinskellig Bay on Ireland's southwest coast. Mulcahy's Peak is the course's high point; scrambling to the top is an awesome, exhilarating golfing experience. The famous fifth at Lahinch is a short par three, but from the tee, your only target is a small white rock on the crown of the huge mound. The tiny green offers no margin for error.

Play on most Irish links is relatively inexpensive and easy to arrange. But try confine your golf to one region, unless you've really come to see the incomparable countryside. Otherwise, driving between courses on Ireland's quaint road system can easily consume many hours of your trip.

FMI For information about packaged golfing tours:

Irish Links Travel 800-824-6538 www.irish-links.com

Jerry Quinlan's Celtic golf 800-535-6148 or www.jqcelticgolf.com

Wide World of Golf 800-214-4653 www.wideworldofgolf.com

Destination Ireland www.wideworldofgolf.com 800-832-1848 or www.digbtravel.com

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