The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: March twenty-sixth, in Yunnan's Stone Forest.

In many places around the earth, erosion's knife has sculpted wonderfully weird landscapes. In southern China's Yunnan Province, there exists a 200-acre maze of sharp limestone pinnacles, some a more than 100 feet high. At a distance this geologic formation, technically known as a karst, resembles a petrified forest of grey pine trees. Then rays of slanting sunshine reflect off its myriad crystalline facets, and dark shadows bloom in their lee.

Grasping the geological dynamics that formed this amazingly jagged landscape is not difficult, but forget science for a moment. Instead, enter this adamantine realm and succumb to its curious magic. Miles of walkways wander among the pillars, boring through carved arches and bridging bright streams which zig-zag into bubbling cascades and deep, clear pools. Stone steps rise to pagodalike pavilions perched precariously on blade-sharp peaks.

Contemplating the high view is affirmation of the power of time and the elements. Being surrounded by this natural maze is a humbling experience; there's the hope of being able to find your way out tinged with a thrilling uncertainty of being forever lost.

Reaching this most foreign forest is an adventure in itself. The nearby provincial capital of Kunming is a multi-day train trip from Beijing or Shanghai, with spectacular runs through mountainous terrain. Even by air, it's a three-hour flight from Hong Kong, and two more by bus or cab to the Forest. Plan to arrive in late afternoon and spend a night in the Stone Forest Hotel.

FMI For more information, contact the China National Tourist Office, 818-545-7507 or www.cbw.com/hotel/stoneforest