The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: March thirteenth, checking into a portfolio of Parisian hotels.

The City of Lights also has a reputation as the city of costly accommodations. While that true's, especially for travelers who require grand hotels and recognizable brands, Paris is also rich with many smaller, independently run lodgings. Often located in historic locales and surprising settings, many offer personality, panache, as well as more affordable accommodations. Unfortunately, hotel horror stories also abound. Nothing can ruin a stay like a terrible room, while a good one can make an entire journey worthwhile. How to tell the two apart?

The French Ministry of Tourism rates hotels that request on a star system, from one to four. While helpful, that rating focuses more on bathrooms and elevators than key factors like location, ambiance, value or room size. Hotel rooms in Paris also tend to be larger the farther they lie from the city's medieval center, but that also entaila longer excursions.

The March issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program, presents a portfolio of 22 off-beat Paris hotels. They range from rooms in a former convent to Belle Epoch boudoirs and a hotel attached to a working hospital. Many have color TVs and mini-bars. All are clean, comfortable and within 20 Metro minutes of the city center. Best of all, a double room at any of them costs no more than $100 per night, and some, considerably less.

In addition to property profiles, photos, prices and contact information, there's lots of lowdown on the best rooms, as well as bonuses and caveats. Tres cheap, So Chic, a good resource for any Parisian traveler.