The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: June sixth, with an insider's guide to D.C.

The capital of the United States is much more than a monument to freedom or symbolic seat of power. Designed by a Frenchman, built originally largely by slave labor on dredged marshland, and named for the fledgling nation's founding father, Washington has always been a fitting Main street for a restless country.

The city's grown into an enclave of intertwined neighborhoods, world class culture and excellent cuisines. It is a capital of myriad ethnicities, multiple identities and surprising nooks and crannies, where green space is as cherished as marble and mortar. It's quixotic, less bureaucratic than its reputation suggests and more romantic than politicians admit, where the mayor shops for his own groceries.

The editorial heart of the magazine National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program, is also situated in Washington. In the latest issue, its editors invite readers to experience DC as they do, from its soaring symbols to its cozy diners. They suggest slick ways to see major monuments and artful ambles to museums both on and beyond the Mall. There's a brace of distinctive District views, directions to get behind the scenes, kid tips for capital fun, even a local media guide.

A slate of accommodating candidates are offered, ranging from affordable District hotels to top diplomatic digs. A trio of DC's best chefs identify the strongest links in its food chain. For nightlife, there are insights on a surprisingly active theater scene, topped by the cultural cornucopia of the Adams Morgan area. Adding a collection of contacts and a map, it encapsulates the best Washington has to offer.

FMI For Washington DC Convention and Tourism, 202- 789-7000 or www.washington.org

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