The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: June twenty-fourth, visiting the country inns of Belgium.

Only slightly larger than the state of Maryland, the European nation of Belgium is amply-endowed with small, superb country inns. Often situated on centuries-old estates, they're characterized by fine furnishings, meticulous grounds and proprietors who enjoy fine food.

Consider Chateau d'Hassonville in the Ardenne region. It was built by Louis the 14th of France, who loved to hunt the area's forests. The Sun King's turreted estate was purchased in 1988 by an Antwerp couple, who have restored its 20 guest rooms to recall earlier times.

Le Castel du Val D'Or, a grand 17th century stone and brick edifice with 17 guest rooms, is located 25 miles south of Liege and has been a country inn since the early 1900s.

The origin of the Auberge du Moulin Hideaux is less illustrious. Once a grist mill, it nestles in a forested valley in Belgium's southeast corner. For 50 years, the two-story, pink stone building has been a small inn with a relaxed, upscale French, country setting.

Sholteshof, or the sherrif's house, is another 17th-century farm. Now it's a grand inn graced by two Michelin stars. The complex of tan stone buildings capped by steep, red tile roofs resembles a tiny village.

Finally, the long driveway of the Hostellerie Shamrock is lined with giant rhododendron and hedges. The half-timbered manor house was built in the late 1920's by a baron from Ghent. The interior of the small, personal inn is dark and dignified, but its menu is very light.

While not cheap, it is surprising how inexpensive all this luxury can be. In egalitarian Belgium, elegance is a right, not a privilege.

FMI To contact Belgium hotels mentioned, call from the U.S.:

Chateau d'Hassonville - 011-32-84-31-1025

Le Castel du Val D'Or - 011-32-86-34-4103

Auberge du Moulin Hideaux - 011-32-61-46- 7015

Hostellerie Shamrock - 011-55-21-5529

Sholteshof - 011-32-11- 25-0202

For a complete listing of Belgium's country inns and hotels, visit www.visitbelgium.com

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