The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: June eighteenth, racing to the Finnish line.

It's no surprise that water is a persistent recreational theme in Suomi, as the people of Finland call their country. Embraced by two arms of the Baltic Sea, the Gulf of Finland to the south and Gulf of Bothnia to the west, the coast of Scandanavia's second largest nation is lined with thousands of tiny islands. Inland there are lakes aplenty, more than 187,00 dot the California-sized expanse.

Thus, a large percentage of Finns own a holiday cottage by the water. In summer, when temperatures can climb to 85 degrees, they drift leisurely in rowboats fishing with old-style hook and line. After a session in the sauna, they plunge in the nearest body of water. In the evening, they enjoy makkara, a grilled sausage affectionately known as Finland's national vegetable. Another popular delicacy is smoked or flame seared salmon, especially if served with fresh mushroom sauce and followed by a dessert of self-picked berries. After a day in the fresh air, swimming and lounging, folks sleep deeply, even this time of year when the sun casts a gentle glow throughout the night.

Visitors can also rent these cottages by the day, week or even the whole summer. Several cruise lines ply the coastal waters, offering opportunity to explore the Finnish archipelago. Vassa, the seaside village known as Finland's sunniest place, has a huge waterpark and great beaches. Foreign visitors are often shocked to find they can get sun seared on an exotic Nordic beach. Even Lapland, which covers the country's northern third, hosts wild animal safaris around the year.

There's a flock of fine Finnish flings in this issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program. You can register for a free, sample copy at our home page.

FMI For a listing of Finnish cottages, www.lomarengas.fi. For Lapland Safaris, www.laplandsafaris.com

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