The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: June twelfth, exploring the caves of Cappadocia.

An amazing landscape unfolds 100 miles southeast of Ankara, the capital of modern Turkey. The focus of a recent Turkish Government advertising campaign, it is a vast realm of bizarrely-eroded volcanic rock. At first, the jagged pinnacles of dusty red rock seem to be devoid of life, but humanity has been burrowing its way into this titanically tortured terrain for more than 4000 years.

Ancient Hittites may have been the first to carve caves into the volcanic mud ash and call them home. Uncounted caves pocket every corner of the Goreme Valley. Some are no more than simple rooms with crude furniture chiseled into the walls. In the 7th century, Christians hiding from Arab raiders chipped hundreds of churches into the earth, some complete with sculptured altars and walls frescoed to resemble stained glass windows.

In fact, entire towns were carved into the soft tufa rock. Derinkuyu, an underground city only re- discovered in the 1950s, has been excavated to a depth of seven stories. This complex warren of underground streets and lanes once housed some 10,000 residents, with tunnels leading to other subterranean settlements nearby.

Although most Cappadocia cave dwellings are deserted, many still serve as shelter. There are even a handful of cave hotels. And in Zelve, a deserted monastery is one of the most fascinating remnants of the area's troglodyte past. Exploring its many hidden recesses requires some athletic ability, but it is rare fun for any curious traveler who is up to the challenge.

FMI For info on the caves of Cappadocia, call the Turkish Government Information office at 202-429-9844 or visit www.turkey.org

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