The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: the fourth of July, observing Independence Day at Gettysburg.

This week in 1863, an epic, three-day battle changed the course of the Civil War and the nation's history. Almost as soon as the smoke over Gettysburg had cleared, visitors, including Abraham Lincoln, began visiting the silent, green fields of south central Pennsylvania.

Even today, it's hard to visit Gettysburg's battlefields and not be moved by the tragic events of so long ago. Commercial enterprises have always been eager to help visitors recall the battle. In recent years, controversy has raged regarding how this monument should best serve the many millions who now visit it each year.

The inexpensive offerings of the National Park Service provide lots of substance and little glitz. For orientation, visit at the National Military Park Visitor Center. Pick up a map for self-guided car or bike tours of the battlefield or sign up for ranger-led excursions.

Gettysburg National Park is open year round, but this week the traffic on PA Route 15 has been fierce, as reenactors have gathered to observe the 138th anniversary of the battle. This weekend, the 83rd Pennsylvania Infantry will stage a living encampment.

While in the area, also visit the new National Civil War Museum, which opened recently in nearby Harrisburg. Finally, the Gettysburg Expedition Guide, a new CD rom package from a company called TravelBrains provides a superb orientation. All will help visitors gasp the cause for which "those who struggled here...gave the last full measure of devotion...that this government of the people, by the people, and for the people shall not perish from the earth."

FMI For information on Gettysburg, 717-334-1124 or www.nps.gov.gett

For National Civil War Museum in Harrisburg, 1-800-258-4729 or www.nationalcivilwarmuseum.org

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