The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: July nineteenth, trekking through the snows of Kilimanjaro.

At 19,335 feet, Uhruhu Peak is Africa's acme, the summit of a multi-coned, volcanic massif along Tanzania's border with Keyna that the world knows as Kilimanjaro. The peak is the high point on the rim of a mile-wide caldera. Its flanks are draped with glaciers and gargantuan ice chunks that melt into fields of grey rock and gravel. Beyond, an eternity of blue extends further in all directions than any eye can see.

Though it lies almost on the equator, Kilimanjaro's mountainous mix of elevation, intense sun and thin air make every day on its upper slopes summer and every night winter. But attaining this peak is more a trek than a technical climb, a test of stamina rather than skill, a feat of putting one foot in front of the other again and again and again. Several thousand people try scaling Kilimanjaro each year; more than 40 percent succeed. Each climber requires considerable support.

From tropical farmlands on its lower flanks, Kilimanjaro rises through Alpine-like meadows up to the near lunar landscape of the summit. The Marangu route, the most traveled of Kilimanjaro's five primary approaches, requires a grueling, three and a half day slog to the top, and a day and a half to get back down. The more scenic, western route across the Shira Plateau generally takes three days longer, but provides more time to get used to the altitude. That's important, because it's the altitude that defeats most climbers.

In Swahili, the secret to a successful climb is polepole, "go slowly." That's the mantra that will get you up the mountain.

FMI Numerous outfitters, both in the US and Tanzania arrange regular group treks up Kilimanjaro, but individual trips can also be arranged. For information contact Tanzania 202-939-6125 or www.tanzania-web.com. Here's a sampling of U.S. based Kilimanjaro tour operators: Geographic Expeditions 800-777-8183; Big Five Tours 800-244-3483; Born Free Safaris 800-372-3274; Micato Safaris 800-642-2861; Mountain Madness 800-328-5925; Mountain Travel Sobek 510-527-8100

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