The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: July twenty-third, making out with Madrid.

Although it's been Spain's capital for four centuries, Madrid is not an elegant city, not in the sense of Paris, Rome, or London. Instead of following the fashions of others, Madrid makes its own hours and pursues its own pleasures. It's a city that can spend all afternoon at lunch, dine at eleven, attend a show that starts at midnight, and get into traffic jams at 3:00 a.m. It's a city that passionately loves its bull fights and flamenco, intricate, hand-clapping, heel-tapping rhythms in which a casual listener can get lost.

Yet, in many ways, historic Madrid, the mile-and-a-half stretch wide boulevards and narrow streets between its two great parks, is the heart of Spain. All highway distances are measured from "kilometer zero" in its Puerto del Sol. Though haphazardly displayed, the huge collection in the Prado, Madrid's massive museum, draws art lovers from afar. In fact, Madrid has more museums than most visitors have energy to see them. But, if you can see only one, the magnificent Thyssen Bornemisza might be a better bet.

Madrid's art and architecture may be old, but its spirit has been revived in the decades since democracy came to Spain. Prosperity and freedom have let its citizens display their natural enthusiasms. The huge square of Plaza Mayor may be Madrid's public center, but the warren of tiny, balconied streets that surround it is where Madrilenos gather each evening. They sip beer and wine, nibble tapas, and enjoy this golden moment in history. Visitors are always welcome to join their party.

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