The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: July nineteenth, at home with the cave-dwellers of France.

The village of Troo (trow) is the cave home capital of France. It's situated beneath a river cliff, 100 miles southwest of Paris. Actually, it would be more correct to say much of Troo has been dug into that beautiful bluff.

The first humans to gouge sanctuaries for themselves into the creamy-gold, rock face used stone tools and wore animal skins. Many subsequent tribes have sheltered here, from early Gauls and Romans to modern French, with each generation carving its dwellings more deeply into the south-facing cliff. Cave-living is still quite common in Troo.

In fact, the cliff is a multi-layered sandwich with dozens of inhabited caves, or troglodytes. Some are year-round residences, but most now serve as summer homes for Parisians. Steep lanes and footpaths connect the different caves. Since many of Troo's caves are situated high on the cliff face, they have great views and lots of natural light.

Some cave dwellings are palatial. One multi-room mansion with marble floors, elegant furnishings and fixtures, and a stupendous view, merited coverage in the French version of House and Garden magazine.

Caves throughout central France are available for vacation rental through the French Gite system. Rental caves tend to be simple, clean, and cool; with rough-chiseled, white-washed walls and terra-cotta floors. Good ones make a great base from which to explore the charming and historic French countryside.

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