The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL, January thirty-first, cave diving in the Yucatan.

Five million years ago, much of this sandy peninsula was submerged by what we now call the Gulf of Mexico. As the waters retreated and land lifted, coral reefs were exposed and gradually overlaid by thin earth and thick jungles. These petrified reefs provided a porous layer through which torrents of rain water could pass as it drained back to the sea. Over time, subterranean rivers and caverns were carved, weaving intricate underground networks that meander for miles. Some are hidden from the surface; over others sinkholes and collapsed domes formed, in every variation of the craft of water.

Ancient Maya who inhabited this region referred to these caves as dzonot, or abyss, and considered them sacred, portals to the underworld through which they journeyed to meet their gods and ancestors in the afterlife. Of course, the pure, fresh water that still flows in these passages was also a salvation when times were dry.

Now called cenotes (se NO tes), these subterranean networks are a hidden wonderland for adventurous travelers. Otherworldly realms of deep, pellucid pools of warmth are set amidst numbingly beautiful geology, yawning, cobalt blue grottos, draped with delicate stalactites and trailing root tendrils from water craving trees above.

Over 2,000 Yucatan cenotes have now been identified, mapped and logged. Access to many have been developed, with locals ready to carefully lead interested visitors to and through, by foot, snorkel and scuba. Precious, intimate and mesmerizing, it's a compelling way to experience a hidden Yucatan.

There's a guide to cenotes in this issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program. Listeners can register for a free sample copy on our home page.

FMI A good place to check out cenotes is Aktun Chen, an ecopark just south of the the town of Akumal - www.aktunchen.com. English-speaking tour operators that take visitors for dive/snorkel tours into cenotes include:Aqua Tech Dive Center - www.cenotes.com; Hidden Worlds Cenotes - www.hiddenworlds.com.mx; Akumal Dives Shop - www.akumal.com; Dive Center Akumal - www.akumandivecenter.com

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