The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: January seventeenth, looking down from Divisadero.

This week, we've been exploring Mexico's Copper Canyon from the Chihuahua Pacific railroad. The high point of the trip, both literally and physically, is the tiny town of El Divisidero.

For decades before the Mexican government found a way to lay tracks through the mountains to the west, this settlement perched on the rim of Copper Canyon was the end of the rail line. It's still where all trains stop for 15 minutes to give through-travelers a chance to get out and gawk at the precipitous view. But if you want to enjoy the canyon's beauties, plan to spend a night or two in Divisadero.

Or better yet, stop a bit further up the track at Pousada Barrancas, where several small hotels offer superior accommodations and wonderful views. Supreme among these is the Mirador, an eagle's nest of a hotel perched right on the canyon's rim. Each of its 30 rooms open on a private balcony hanging over what must be one of earth's most fantastic views. You can lie in bed and watch the sun play color tricks with the canyon's steep, shimmering flanks. Or, if you feel more energetic, a Tarahumara guide will show you the way down in the valley, where you can really hear the wind blow.

But travelers who crave serious exploration of the canyon use the town of Creel as their base. Situated at the head of Copper Canyon, it's a bustling rail town reminiscent of the old west. Though its accommodations are rustic, Creel is also where the unique Tarahumara Indians are most visible. More about them tomorrow.

FMI For Copper Canyon railroad information contact: www.railsnw.com or 503.793-0523. For tours Columbus Copper Canyon Travel www.canyontravel.com or 1 800-843-1060. For hotel information or reservations, contact Balderama Hotels in Mexico, (681-8-70-46)

Back to January 04 Main

Look through the list of fascinating places and off-beat features we’ve covered. Search text versions of past episodes and articles in our archives.