The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL, January third, boning up on Uruguay.

For beef- eaters, this South American nation tucked in a cozy coastal nook between Argentina and Brazil is a prime cut of paradise. Roughly the size of Washington state, Uruguay is mostly moist, gently rolling grasslands, with a band of low hills and dunes along its 120-mile Atlantic oceanfront. Indeed, much of the real estate is sprawling estancias, working cattle ranches whose bovine population out numbers Uruguay's 3.2 million residents six to one.

The country was settled early in the 17th century by Spaniards, who eradicated the native population. Re-peopled, often forcibly, with emigrants from Spain, Portugal, Italy and Germany, it's not surprising Uruguay has a decidedly European ambiance. The architecture of Montevideo, its capital and main city, is sophisticated and old worldly, rather than third worldly. Its fine public places boast well-kept squares, a sculpture-filled Botanical Garden and an amusement park, as well as one of South America's best golf courses. It also boasts a brisk cultural scene, with lots of live theater, wonderful restaurants and cafes where residents sit and sip mate. The tealike beverage brewed from the leaves of a holly-like shrub is something of a national passion.

Uruguay's other attractions include a string of tony beach towns along its Atlantic riviera, the most notable of which is Punte del Este. And the pampas offers opportunities for outdoor adventures, from hunting, fishing, biking and trekking, to dude ranches where visitors can play at being gauchos. And while winter chills North America, Uruguayan are enjoying the fruits of summer.

FMI For information: Uruguay Ministry of Tourism at www.turismo.gub.uy

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