The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: February second, in an off-beat corner of Europe.

Many travelers are unaware there's an entire country tucked into several deep mountain valleys between the borders of France and Spain. The sovereign nation of Andorra covers 175-square miles, most of it on the steep flanks of Pyrenees peaks which average 9,000 feet.

Independent since the 13th-century, Andorra has always been closely tied to its neighbors. In fact, commerce between France and Spain, legal and otherwise, has been a primary element in the Andorran economy for centuries. Andorra has no air or rail service, and its only highway has become a long strip-mall for French and Spanish bargain shoppers. That's especially true in its capital, La Vella, whose once quaint streets have been overwhelmed by traffic and where six-language restaurant menus seem to be the norm.

Fortunately, it's still easy to get off the main road in Andorra, and that's where to discover the country's less commercial charms. In winter, the star attraction is skiing, both downhill and cross-country. Activity is focused around half a dozen mountain resort towns, where thermal baths provide soothing temperatures for apres-ski activities.

In spring, when the snow melts and the peaks turn green, Andorra blossoms with hiking. Two well-traveled trails traverse the country north to south. Hunting is another common activity, and salmon and trout frequent the country's high lakes and streams.

While not yet on many itineraries, Andorra is blessed with treasures that don't include shopping.

FMI For information contact Andorra's trade mission at 212-750-8064 or visit http://www.andorraonline.com/aolang/index.htm

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