The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: January twenty fifth, on the road to Zanzibar.

Few places evoke mystery and adventure like Zanzibar. This 40-mile-long, tropical island in the Indian Ocean 25 miles off Africa's east coast has seen its share of both. When the first Portuguese landed here 500 years ago, they found a already brisk slave trade, commerce they heartily embraced. Zanzibar came to be ruled by arab sultans, who amassed huge fortunes exporting ivory, cloves and human beings.

In the mid-19th century, the pier at Stone Town, Zanzibar's only real city, was the embarkation point for all the high profile explorations of darkest Africa. After slavery was abolished and Africa explored, Zanzibar lost its strategic importance. In the 1960's, an uprising resulted in the massacre of thousands of Arab residents. The Marxist government which emerged from the strife lasted until 1986. Since then, Zanzibar has been affiliated with Tanzania. The largely Muslim island has been trying to attract visitors, with mixed results.

Hosting fewer than 100,000 tourists each year, Zanzibar still has the feel of a place about to be discovered. In recent years much of Stone Town's grand colonial architecture has been cleaned. The island is ringed with white sand beaches, some so remote the ocean is the only sound. Several small hotels dot the east coast. Mnemba, a private coral cay off Zanzibar's northeast coast, is a very up-scale resort. Lateen-masted fishing dhows plying brilliant blue waters add to Zanzibar's exotic image. Though strict Muslim, its people are tolerant and fun loving. As one visitor noted, if you've been someplace nicer, you have probably died and are in heaven.

FMI For Zanzibar information www.zanzibar.net or the Embassy of Tanzania 1-202-939-6128.

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