The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: November nineteenth, in a Puerto Rican rain forest.

Last time, we explored great places to stay on Puerto Rico. Long before Columbus discovered the island, the native tribes considered its rain forests a sanctuary for themselves and their gods. Today, like many places around the world, most of Puerto Rico's rain forests have become victims of over-development. Fortunately one tropical rain forest is protected by the U.S. Forest Service. This United Nation's World Biosphere preserve is draped across an anvil-shaped mountain on Puerto Rico's eastern end.

The 28,000 acres now known as the Caribbean National Forest were set aside as a preserve more than 150 years ago by the King of Spain, who then ruled the island. Commonly called El Yunque, this may be the world's most accessible rain forest, with its own exit off Puerto Rico's main east/west highway and a new and very informative visitors center. The forest is threaded with numerous and well-marked trails, and a hike up the flanks of the 3400-foot mountain takes visitors through four different ecosystems. The moss-draped landscape evolves from tracts dominated by towering candlewood trees, to crooked palo colorado trees, to stands of Sierra Palms and finally the mystical dwarf-forest of the rain-drenched highlands.

The most rewarding excursion leads to El Yunque's peak, which the local Taino Indians revered as the home of the gods. It's a steep, sweaty, five mile climb up and back, but the Caribbean panorama from El Yunque's summit is more than fair compensation for the effort, especially when seen at sunrise.

FMI For El Yunque call 787-888-5646.

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