The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL, January eighteenth, exploring the paradores of Puerto Rico.

Many travelers know about the pousadas of Spain and Portugal, the quaint and historic government-owned inns that offer charming and affordable accommodations. Other countries have also preserved their grand estates and manors this way.

Consider the paradores of Puerto Rico. The island now has 22 moderately-priced, privately owned inns and guest houses situated in historic buildings. Several superb paradores are located in the San Juan area, but the majority lie on the island's western and southern coasts, near the cities of Mayaguez and Ponce. A few paradores are situated in the mountains, others are charming seaside villas. Most offer modern amenities, swimming pools and authentic Puerto Rican cuisine. And here's the best part. At an average of about $80 per night for a double room, including breakfast, dinner and often evening entertainment, Puerto Rico's paradores are a vacation bargain.

For example, the Parador Hacienda Gripinas is the great house of a former coffee plantation. Its 19 rooms come complete with ceiling fans, shuttered windows, hardwood floors and hammocks on the wide veranda. Parador Hacienda Juanita is nestled in the central mountains. In addition to natural attractions, it's only minutes away from the Arecibo Observatory, the world's largest radio telescope. The 22-room Parador la Familia is located near the beach in the fishing village of Vajardo on the east coast. A popular spot for water sports, its two off-shore, coral-reefed islands are favored by snorklers and divers. Tune in tomorrow, when we'll visit a highpoint not far from Vajardo.

FMI Paradores Puertorriquenos in San Juan at 800- 443-0266 or www.prtourism.com.

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