The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: February twentieth, enviously eyeing Ischia. (Is KEY ah)

At 18 square miles, Ischia is the largest of four islands scattered off Italy's Bay of Naples. The remains of a collapsed volcano, it's honeycombed with thermal aquifers and hot springs that long ago earned it a reputation as the Isle of WellªBeing. Greeks colonized Ischia as early as 750 B.C., and Romans, along with a slew of subsequent occupiers, have enjoyed its beguiling climate and strategic setting, despite an occasional volcanic eruption or devastating earthquake.

Today, most of the island's 60,000 residents live in six municipalities, the largest of which is also named Ischia. The town is a puzzle of pink and blue stucco structures wedged tightly in against the rocky coastline. With lush gardens, panoramic views and more than 100 spas, Ischia attracts visitors year-round. The vast majority, however, arrive from mid-July to late August to pack its crystal beaches, hotels, restaurants and open air bars.

While never quite as fashionable as its sister Isle of Capri, Ischia has always attracted ardent, often artistic admirers. In 1962 while filming "Cleopatra" on Ischia, Elizabeth Taylor traded in husband Eddie Fisher for her co-star, Richard Burton. Directors Billy Wilder and Vittorio DeSica both vacationed and worked on the island, and more recently, it served as backdrop for "The Talented Mr. Ripley."

Many visitors return to Ischia again and again, for though they may regretfully leave its charms, its charms never leave them. Author Lorenzo Carcaterra offers a personal memory of Ischia in this issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program. You can register for a free sample copy on our home page.

FMI For information on Ischia, www.ischiaonline.it

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