The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: February sixteenth, hiking in one of America's most celebrated "blank spots."

The Gila National Forest encompasses eleven ranges of gorgeous mountains that rise from the high, dry plains in New Mexico's south-west corner. A thousand years ago, the valleys were home to the Mogollon, a tribe that sheltered in local caves. Years later came the Apache, who hunted the land and drove off invaders. In the early 16th century, Spaniards arrived in search of gold and found silver. After the area became part of the US, fierce indian wars raged. A bloody peace treaty was struck in 1874, which made the area safe for folks like Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid.

In 1924, half a million acres were set aside as protected wilderness, the first official blank spot on the US map. When Gila National Forest was added, the sanctuary grew to 3.3 million acres. Despite the dry, sun-blasted landscape of the low country, there's plenty of flora and fauna, though every living thing has developed armor, stingers, stickers or fangs to keep it from becoming some other creature's dinner. The area's most famous resident is undoubtedly the Gila Monster, North America's only poisonous lizard.

But the highlands get ample of water, and the flanks of these steep, stony slopes bristle with stands of spruce and aspen. Though deep in snow this time of year, when spring arrives, ferns and columbine quickly carpet the forest's understory and meadow glades fill with wild flowers and hummingbirds. But since the Gila is real wilderness, also expect to see elk, deer and coyote, not to mention the occasional mountain lion and black bear.

FMI For Gila Wilderness information, contact Glenwood District Ranger Station at (505) 539-2481 or Wilderness District Ranger Station (505) 536-9461, or visit www.gilawilderness.com

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