The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: December fourth, wandering through Germany's Christmas markets.

Christians everywhere are making Yuletide preparations, but nowhere is the Holiday Season greeted more traditionally than in Germany. One essential is the month- long Christmas Market that for centuries has been held in most cities and villages.

All across Germany, civic squares fill with booths brightly decorated with evergreen and twinkling lights. Warmed by crackling wood stoves, local artisans demonstrate their crafts and vendors present their wares. Musicians play, choirs sing and Noel noises mingle in crisp air rich with aromas of chestnuts, cookies and hot spiced wine. Germany has dozens of wonderful Christmas markets; here are several of note.

Dating back over 600 years, Munich's market, held in front of town hall on Marienplatz, may be Germany's oldest Christmas market. Besides seasonal handicrafts such as candles, nutcrackers and wooden toys, Munich's known for its intricate, hand-carved wooden creches.

Nuremberg stages Germany's largest Christmas market. Its specialties are gingerbread houses and zwetchgenmanchen, or prune people, tiny figures made from nuts, raisins, figs and dried plums dressed in little costumes. Live tableaux depict nativity scenes.

Two million people will visit Cologne's Old Market, held in front of the city's signature Gothic cathedral, which recently celebrated its 750th anniversary. Significant markets are also held in Augsburg, Dresden, Freiburg and Leipzig. It's impossible to visit any and not be captured by the spirit of the season.

FMI For information on Christmas Markets, call German National Tourist Office at 212-661-7200 or www.germany-tourism.de

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