The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: December twenty-first, yapping it up.

A little known Micronesian archipelago pops out of the Pacific 500 miles southwest of Guam. The Western Carolines consist of four main islands, Yap, Map, Rumung and Tomil-Gagil, along with dozens of tiny islets and atolls. All maintain low profiled, jungle-covered topographies and harbor an indigenous civilization that for centuries has held its own against foreign influences.

Outlasting zealous missionaries and military occupiers, the Yapese have steadfastly resisted tampering with their culture. Though technically a constitutional democracy, Yap is ruled by a rigid caste system run by village elders who have the power to veto any laws that interfere with traditional customs. Even today, most men and women go around naked from the waist up. Another exotic custom is Yap's big money, carved stone disks ranging from two to twelve feet in diameter. Known as "rai," the huge coins stand in front of most Yapese houses as a testament to the inhabitant's wealth and status.

Yap's inter-island channels teem with colorful fish, 500-pound manta rays, shark and dogtooth tuna. An abundance of coral reefs, secluded lagoons, rock caves, blue holes and World War II shipwrecks make Yap a great dive destination.

Visitors should also tour one of Yap's many traditional villages. Centuries-old stone pathways wind through thick jungle to the village of Kaday, where the traditional story-telling dances are still performed. Bechiyal, located on Map, is a living cultural center.

A visit to Yap will be one about which you can yak for years.

FMI For information on the islands of Yap, call Yap Tourism at 691- 350-2298 or www.visityap.com

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