The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: December twentieth, going underground down under.

Now that the Olympics are over, Australians are re-focusing on their continental nation's natural charms. For example, cave lovers are delighted with the necklace of showy caverns hidden under the Blue Mountains, 100 miles west of Sydney.

Best estimates count some 300 limestone caves in the Jenolan region. All are suspected to form one, vast, interconnected system, but no one really knows. Nine of the caverns are named "show caves," fitted out with electric lights, steps and walkways to make them accessible to the general public. Six others are designated "wild caves," which require visitors to wear battery lights and coveralls. Adventurers who want to explore any of the area's other grottos must obtain permits from the Jenolan Caves Reserve Trust, which oversees the entire system.

Imperial Cave was proclaimed grandest of the lot upon its discovery a century ago. Its tight passageways lead into high arched chambers adorned with fluted, milky-white cascades of stone and twists of helicite. In contrast, natural wall niches in Orient Cave resemble jewel boxes, aglow with subtle oranges, browns and pinks. Cavernous, domed rooms are crowded with fabulous stone spires and shining crystal canopies. River Cave and Lucas Cave, two other Jenolan treats, have their own particular charms to reveal.

There are too many spelunking splendors for a one-day visit. Caves House, the Jenolan park's rambling, old country inn offers charming, comfortable and inexpensive overnight accommodations.

FMI For information on Australia's Jenolan Caves, call Caves House Inn (61 63) www.bluemts.com.au

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