The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: August thirty-first, exploring two islands in San Francisco Bay.

This time of year, the lines are long at San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf for the ferry ride to Alcatraz. As many as 5000 tourists a day make the 15 minute trip across the cold, choppy waters to what was once this country's Devil's Island.

Long a military fortress and prison, Alcatraz became a federal penitentiary in 1933. Considered escape-proof due to the strong cold currents of the shark-infested waters around it, the Rock was home to the prison system's most intractable inmates for over 30 years, perhaps most notably, the infamous "Scarface" Al Capone. A decade after it closed, Alcatraz became part of the National Park Service, but its history has given the old penitentiary plenty of tourist appeal, especially after a brief occupation in 1970 by Native Americans.

Alcatraz is fascinating, but a slightly longer voyage will land you at a larger though less famous bay island. Tree-lined trails wind along rocky cliffs and sheltered coves of Angel Island. Also once an army post, this 740-acre mountain served as Ellis Island of the west, the center through which thousands of immigrants to the U.S., mostly Chinese, were processed.

For the last three decades, Angel Island has attracted picnickers, cyclists, hikers, birders and history buffs. A five-mile perimeter road makes an easy circuit, with an endless string of great views. Climbing Mount Livermore or beach-combing make for great day-trips. Several small historical exhibitions and a visitor center also provide insight on Angel Island's colorful past.

FMI For information about Alcatraz or Angel's Island, call the Blue and Gold Ferry Fleet at 415-546- 2700 or Angel Island Visitor's Center 415-435-1915. Boats leave from Fisherman's Wharf pier and reservations are a good idea, especially in peak seasons, when a week in advance is not too soon.

Online information can be accessed through the San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau website: www.sfcvb.org.

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