The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: August twenty-eighth, frolicking on the Lahn.

Last time, we toured the wine country along Germany's Moselle river. Just south of where the Moselle meets the Rhine at Koblenz is the mouth of another beautiful, but less well-known German river, the Lahn. From its source in the Rothaar mountains, the Lahn flows 150 miles west through some of Germany's most idyllic countryside.

Marburg, a gem of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, is the main city on the Lahn. A university town, Marburg suffered little physical damage during World War Two. Its steep, cobble-stoned streets are lined with well-preserved, half- timbered buildings, many dating from the 13th Century. The most notable structure is Saint Elizabeth's church. This magnificent basilica was erected over the grave of its namesake, a young princess who was canonized for her charitable deeds just four years after her death in 1231. Germany's first pure Gothic structure, the church is a treasure trove of ecclesiastic art. Marburg has a dozen other interesting churches and museums, but the most notable medieval structure is its castle, situated on a bluff overlooking the river.

The heart of Marburg is its university. Located in the Altstadt and long regarded as one of Europe's finest, its students fill the many sidewalk cafes and taverns around the central market. Their round-the-clock vibrancy certainly energizes the town. The whole package makes this small town on the Lahn well worth going out of the way to visit.

FMI For information on the Lahn, the German National Tourist Office at 212-661-7200 or www.visits-to-germany.com

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