THE TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: August twenty-seventh, enjoying the Riesling on the mittel Moselle.

Although the Moselle River rises in France, it twists and turns its way though narrow German valleys for 150 miles before pouring into the Rhine at the town of Koblenz. The tiny villages along Moselle are among Germany's most ancient. The Romans, who built an outpost at the town of Trier 2000 years ago, were quick to recognize that the steep slate hillsides were ideal for growing grapes. Viticulture has been a primary activity in these parts ever since.

Today, over 30,000 acres of the steep and south-facing slopes are covered with grape vines. In picturesque villages such as Neumagen, Bernkastle and Traben Trarbach, Riesling is king.

Wine along the Moselle is still a cottage industry, with boutique vineyards and little glitz. Uncork a magnificent Riesling in a tiny half-timbered tasting room, and its memory will linger on your taste buds for years. Spatlese, pressed from overripe grapes, will be weightier, and the vibrant fruitiness of Eiswein, made from grapes that have frozen on the vine, can make the best sauterne taste like varnish. Even the least costly Qualitatswein will seem like ambrosia, if sipped on a sun- washed veranda over a lunch of roast pork and potatoes.

In August, September and early October, the vines become pendulous with fruit. The fall is an ideal touring time, either by car or the white boats which ply the narrow river. For wine lovers, the middle Moselle will truly be a sip of heaven.

FMI For information: call KD River Cruises of Europe at 800-346-6525 or www.rivercruises.com

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