The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: August twenty-first, seeing red in Moscow.

There have been changes in the capital of the former Soviet Union since it went out of business a decade ago. Moscow's had a make over. Luxury hotels have been built, western style restaurants have opened and visitors are free to sightsee at will, without minders from Intourist, Soviet Russia's Big Brother travel agency. But some visitors come to see the old Moscow, the place of East-West intrigue.

Not to worry. Vestiges of the ex-Evil Empire abound, from the Gothic-looking skyscrapers to Novodevichy cemetery, the final resting place of USSR VIPs. In addition to tombs of Khrushchev and Gromyko, dozens of lesser dignitaries are interred. Since Communists were atheists, high level dead were often immortalized as if they'd spend eternity plotting the downfall of the West. One artfully modeled, red marble tombstone depicts the deceased busy at his desk. Another is working the phone. Graves in the military section are adorned with ballistic missiles and other emblems of mutually assured destruction, proof of Marx's theory that history repeats itself as farce, not tragedy.

Moscow's excellent subway system is another tribute to the Soviet era. Its stations are underground theme parks, colorful catacombs of Communist kitsch with an admission fee of 15 cents a ride. Revolution Square, the city's busiest station still has an array of bronze statues of average Soviet citizens armed to the teeth against Enemy Number One. Other Iron Curtain icons include Lenin's Tomb, the Kremlin, KGB headquarters and Hotel Moskva, all places that still haven't completely come in from the cold.

This issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program, takes a Red tour of Moscow.

FMI Most foreign visitors are free to make their own excursions anywhere in Moscow, but at least two companies located in the US can arrange guided tours of its Cold War sites:

Intourist Tours, 800-556-5305 or www.intourist.com

FOS Tours and Travel 800-367-3450 or www.fostours.com

Other useful Moscow websites: www.moscowcity.com www.themoscowtimes.com and www.moscow-guide.ru

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