The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: April nineteenth, flirting with Crete.

Home to one of Europe's earliest civilizations, the Greek island of Crete has accumulated nearly 4000 years of recorded history. 150 miles east to west and 40 miles at its widest, Crete basks in the Mediterranean sunshine like a sleek seal. Agriculture makes it a prosperous place. A steady tide of vacationers make it a modern and cosmopolitan destination, especially in the neon-bright north coast resorts and the bustling city of Iraklion. Still, you don't have to go far into the mountainous interior to find the old Crete. In fact, one village is preserving its past by inviting guests to take part in its present.

Five years ago, a handful of idealistic locals in the village of Vamos put together a cooperative venture. They figured they couldn't stop the flow of tourism, but by channelling it in the right direction, it could have a positive impact. Culturally conscious travelers seeking a genuine Mediterranean experience essentially become villagers for a week or more. In addition to dining and dallying at the taverna, they can have a hands on experience, or, when crushing the grape harvest into wine, a feet on experience. Other activities include farming, sheparding, olive picking, basket weaving, bread making and the other human ventures of traditional village life, along with lots of time to wander the sun-ripened foothills or bask on nearby beaches.

The cooperative venture has clearly been positive for the village, spreading the benefits among farmers and craftspeople as much as landlords and shopkeepers. The locals still regard Vamos as their village, and so do visitors, who are made to feel right at home.

There are details in this issue of National Geographic Traveler, a supporter of our program. You can register for a sample copy on our home page.

FMI For information on Vamos SA, www.south.travelgreece.com/crete/xania/vamos. A 5 day village experience costs about $460, including lodging and activities, but not food or transportation.

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