The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: April seventeenth, getting into Estonia.

It's difficult to say whether the location of this tiny nation on the corner of the Baltic Sea has been a blessing, a curse or simply a test of patience. Settled by relatives of Finns, early Estonians prospered from their strategic position along medieval trade routes. Yet, surrounded by much more powerful neighbors, they've have only ruled themselves 30 years in the last eight centuries. Amazingly, through it all, they've maintained an independent identity, even though 40 percent of their present population are Russians re-settled during the Soviet decades.

Since gaining independence in 1991, Estonia's made remarkable strides, transforming itself from a dour Soviet outpost into a viable nation with the Baltic's most stable government, modern economy and thriving cultural development. Largely covered by forests and lakes, much of the countryside is unspoiled. Parnu, a seaside resort, and Tartu, an old university town, both make interesting visits.

The country's main metropolis and capital is the old city of Tallinn. Founded as a fort by the Danes in 1144, Tallinn grew to prominence as a center of the Hanseatic league, the cartel of German traders who ruled the Medieval Baltic. Its architecture today includes evidence of every culture that's ruled here, from the Gothic fortresses inside the old city walls to the bland Soviet era blocks in its suburbs.

Tallinn's intact old town is a World Heritage Site. A tour is a medieval feast, especially at the Olde Hansa, a restaurant on the main square with entrees and ambiance straight from the 13th century.

FMI For information on visiting Estonia and Tallinn, http://balticsww.com/tourist.estonia or www.tourism.ee

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