The TRAVELER'S JOURNAL: April thirteenth, celebrating Good Friday in Guanajuato.

The main road north from Mexico City climbs into the country's central plateau. Two hundred miles later, it crests the Sierra Madres and reveals an oasis of steepled churches and pastel-colored buildings.

The colonial capital Guanajuato owes its existence to the gold and silver the Spanish discovered here four centuries ago. Those minerals made it one of the world's wealthiest cities, and, to save their souls, local mine owners constructed ornate churches, founded a university and built themselves some fabulous mansions. In 1810, a Guanajuato parish priest led a band of ragtag revolutionaries in the first victory of what turned out to be Mexico's long war of independence.

History's tide has ebbed, but Guanajuato remains a charming pocket of old world courtliness, resisting both mass tourism and rampant commercialism. Although the U. N. has recognized its clutch of centuries-old buildings as a World Heritage site, Guanajuato remains a relatively undiscovered gem.

Three decades ago, Guanajuato city fathers wisely turned a network of underground rivers into a system of roadway, thereby preserving its colonial core of narrow, cobblestoned streets. Though well-endowed with splendid churches and museums, the enduring creativity of its citizenry gives Guanajuato its color. Master muralist Diego Rivera is only one of its many talented offspring. Their love of color and costume will be especially evident this weekend, Samana Santa, as elaborate street processions re-create the passions of the Easter story.

FMI For information contact www.mexico-travel.com

Back to April 2003 Main

Look through the list of fascinating places and off-beat features we’ve covered. Search text versions of past episodes and articles in our archives.